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比特派钱包app下载|hay

比特派钱包app下载|hay

  • 作者: 比特派钱包app下载
  • 2024-03-13 05:09:17

Hay

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Hay - Wikipedia

Hay - Wikipedia

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1Composition

2Use

3Harvest and transport

4History

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4.1Early methods

4.2Modern mechanized techniques

5Fertilization and weed control

6Baling

7Stacking

8Safety

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8.1Mold

8.2Spontaneous combustion

8.3Weight

9Chemical composition

10See also

11References

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Hay

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From Wikipedia, the free encyclopedia

Dried grass, legumes or other herbaceous plants used as animal fodder

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This article is about dried plant material used as animal food. For other uses, see Hay (disambiguation). "Haystack" and "Haystacks" redirect here. For other uses, see Haystack (disambiguation). Not to be confused with straw, an agricultural byproduct of cereal production.

Fresh grass hay, newly baled.

Hay is grass, legumes, or other herbaceous plants that have been cut and dried to be stored for use as animal fodder, either for large grazing animals raised as livestock, such as cattle, horses, goats, and sheep, or for smaller domesticated animals such as rabbits and guinea pigs. Pigs can eat hay, but do not digest it as efficiently as herbivores do.

Hay can be used as animal fodder when or where there is not enough pasture or rangeland on which to graze an animal, when grazing is not feasible due to weather (such as during the winter), or when lush pasture by itself would be too rich for the health of the animal. It is also fed when an animal is unable to access pasture—for example, when the animal is being kept in a stable or barn.

Hay production and harvest, commonly known as "making hay",[1] "haymaking", "haying" or "doing hay", involves a multiple step process: cutting, drying or "curing", raking, processing, and storing. Hayfields do not have to be reseeded each year in the way that grain crops are, but regular fertilizing is usually desirable, and overseeding a field every few years helps increase yield.

Composition[edit]

Baled cornstalks[2]

Good quality hay is green, not too coarse, and includes plant heads, leaves, as well as stems.

Poor-quality hay is dry, bleached out and coarse-stemmed. Sometimes, hay stored outdoors will look like this on the outside but still be green inside the bale. A dried, bleached or coarse bale is still edible and provides some nutritional value as long as it is dry and not moldy, dusty, or rotting.

Commonly used plants for hay include mixtures of grasses such as ryegrass (Lolium species), timothy, brome, fescue, Bermuda grass, orchard grass, and other species, depending on region. Hay may also include legumes, such as alfalfa (lucerne) and clovers (red, white and subterranean).[3] Legumes in hay are ideally cut pre-bloom. Other pasture forbs are also sometimes a part of the mix, though these plants are not necessarily desired as certain forbs are toxic to some animals.

In the UK some hay is harvested from traditionally managed hay meadows which have a highly diverse flora and which support a rich eco-system. The hay produced by these meadows is species rich and was traditionally used to feed horses.[4]

Oat, barley, and wheat plant materials are occasionally cut green and made into hay for animal fodder, and more usually used in the form of straw, a harvest byproduct of stems and dead leaves that are baled after the grain has been harvested and threshed. Straw is used mainly for animal bedding. Although straw is also used as fodder, particularly as a source of dietary fiber, it has lower nutritional value than hay.[3]

In agroforestry systems are developed to produce tree hay.

It is the leaf and seed material in the hay that determines its quality, because they contain more of the nutrition value for the animal than the stems do.[5]: 194  Farmers try to harvest hay at the point when the seed heads are not quite ripe and the leaf is at its maximum when the grass is mowed in the field. The cut material is allowed to dry so that the bulk of the moisture is removed but the leafy material is still robust enough to be picked up from the ground by machinery and processed into storage in bales, stacks or pits. Methods of haymaking thus aim to minimize the shattering and falling away of the leaves during handling.[5]: 194 

Hay is very sensitive to weather conditions, especially when it is harvested. In drought conditions, both seed and leaf production are stunted, making hay that has a high ratio of dry coarse stems that have very low nutritional values. If the weather is too wet, the cut hay may spoil in the field before it can be baled. Thus, the biggest challenge and risk for farmers in producing hay crops is the weather, especially the weather of the particular few weeks when the plants are at the best age or maturity for hay. A lucky break in the weather often moves the haymaking tasks (such as mowing, tedding, and baling) to the top priority on the farm's to-do list. This is reflected in the idiom to make hay while the sun shines. Hay that was too wet at cutting may develop rot and mold after being baled, creating the potential for toxins to form in the feed, which could make the animals sick.

After harvest, hay also has to be stored in a manner to prevent it from getting wet. Mold and spoilage reduce nutritional value and may cause illness in animals. A symbiotic fungus in fescue may cause illness in horses and cattle.[6]

The successful harvest of maximum yields of high-quality hay is entirely dependent on the coincident occurrence of optimum crop, field, and weather conditions. When this occurs, there may be a period of intense activity on the hay farm while harvest proceeds until weather conditions become unfavourable.

Use[edit]

Main articles: Equine nutrition, Cattle feeding, and Sheep husbandry

Horses eating hay

See also: Fodder, Ruminant, and Cecum

Hay or grass is the foundation of the diet for all grazing animals, and can provide as much as 100% of the fodder required for an animal. Hay is usually fed to an animal during times when winter, drought, or other conditions make pasture unavailable. Animals that can eat hay vary in the types of grasses suitable for consumption, the ways they consume hay, and how they digest it. Therefore, different types of animals require hay that consists of similar plants to what they would eat while grazing, and, likewise, plants that are toxic to an animal in pasture are generally also toxic if they are dried into hay.

Most animals are fed hay in two daily feedings, morning and evening, more for the convenience of humans, as most grazing animals on pasture naturally consume fodder in multiple feedings throughout the day. Some animals, especially those being raised for meat, may be given enough hay that they simply are able to eat all day. Other animals, especially those that are ridden or driven as working animals may be given a more limited amount of hay to prevent them from getting too fat. The proper amount of hay and the type of hay required varies somewhat between different species. Some animals are also fed concentrated feeds such as grain or vitamin supplements in addition to hay. In most cases, hay or pasture forage must make up 50% or more of the diet by weight.

One of the most significant differences in hay digestion is between ruminant animals, such as cattle and sheep, and nonruminant, hindgut fermentors, such as horses. Both types of animals can digest cellulose in grass and hay, but do so by different mechanisms. Because of the four-chambered stomach of cattle, they are often able to break down older forage and have more tolerance of mold and changes in diet. The single-chambered stomach and cecum or "hindgut" of the horse uses bacterial processes to break down cellulose that are more sensitive to changes in feeds and the presence of mold or other toxins, requiring horses to be fed hay of a more consistent type and quality.[7]

Different animals also use hay in different ways: cattle evolved to eat forages in relatively large quantities at a single feeding, and then, due to the process of rumination, take a considerable amount of time for their stomachs to digest food, often accomplished while the animal is lying down, at rest. Thus quantity of hay is important for cattle, who can effectively digest hay of low quality if fed in sufficient amounts. Sheep will eat between two and four percent of their body weight per day in dry feed, such as hay,[8] and are very efficient at obtaining the most nutrition possible from three to five pounds per day of hay or other forage.[9] They require three to four hours per day to eat enough hay to meet their nutritional requirements.[10]

Unlike ruminants, horses digest food in small portions throughout the day, and can only use approximately 2.5% of their body weight in feed in any 24-hour period. They evolved to be continuously on the move while grazing (covering up to 50 miles (80 km) per day in the wild) and their stomach digests food quite rapidly. Thus, they extract more nutrition out of smaller quantities of feed.[11] When horses are fed low-quality hay, they may develop an unhealthy, obese, "hay belly" due to over-consumption of "empty" calories. If their type of feed is changed dramatically, or if they are fed moldy hay or hay containing toxic plants, they can become ill; colic is the leading cause of death in horses. Contaminated hay can also lead to respiratory problems in horses. Hay can be soaked in water, sprinkled with water or subjected to steaming to reduce dust.

Harvest and transport[edit]

Farmers harvesting hay from mountains in Switzerland.

Methods and the terminology to describe the steps of making hay have varied greatly throughout history, and many regional variations still exist today. Whether done by hand or by modern mechanized equipment, tall grass and legumes at the proper stage of maturity must be cut, then allowed to dry (preferably by the sun), then raked into long, narrow piles known as windrows. Next, the cured hay is gathered up in some form (usually by some type of baling process) and placed for storage into a haystack or into a barn or shed to protect it from moisture and rot.

During the growing season, which is spring and early summer in temperate climates, grass grows at a fast pace. It is at its greatest nutritive value when all leaves are fully developed and seed or flower heads are just a bit short of full maturity. When growth is at a maximum in the pasture or field, if judged correctly, it is cut. Grass hay cut too early will not cure as easily due to high moisture content, plus it will produce a lower yield per acre than longer, more mature grass. But hay cut too late is coarser, lower in resale value and has lost some of its nutrients. There is usually about a two-week "window" of time in which grass is at its ideal stage for harvesting hay. The time for cutting alfalfa hay is ideally done when plants reach maximum height and are producing flower buds or just beginning to bloom, cutting during or after full bloom results in lower nutritional value of the hay.

Hay can be raked into rows as it is cut, then turned periodically to dry, particularly if a modern swather is used. Or, especially with older equipment or methods, the hay is cut and allowed to lie spread out in the field until it is dry, then raked into rows for processing into bales afterwards. During the drying period, which can take several days, the process is usually sped up by turning the cut hay over with a hay rake or spreading it out with a tedder. If it rains while the hay is drying, turning the windrow can also allow it to dry faster. Turning the hay too often or too roughly can also cause drying leaf matter to fall off, reducing the nutrients available to animals. Drying can also be sped up by mechanized processes, such as the use of a hay conditioner, or by the use of chemicals sprayed onto the hay to speed evaporation of moisture, though these are more expensive techniques, not in general use except in areas where there is a combination of modern technology, high prices for hay, and too much rain for hay to dry properly.[12]

Once hay is cut, dried and raked into windrows, it is usually gathered into bales or bundles, and then hauled to a central location for storage. In some places, depending on geography, region, climate, and culture, hay is gathered loose and stacked without being baled first.

A tractor mowing a hay field, with the cut hay lying in the foreground

A round baler dumping a freshly rolled hay bale

Modern small-scale transport. Pickup truck loaded with "large square" bales

History[edit]

Early methods[edit]

Haymakers, from the Grimani Breviary, c. 1510.

Haymaking in Wales c. 1885

Late 19th-century hay boat with small square bales

Columella in his De re rustica describes the usual haying process of the early Roman Empire.[13]

Timothy grass and clover were the most common plants used for hay in the early 20th century in the United States, though both plants are native to Europe.[3]

Much hay was originally cut by scythe by teams of workers, dried in the field and gathered loose on wagons. Later, haying was accomplished with horse-drawn implements such as mowers. With the invention of agricultural machinery such as the tractor and the baler, most hay production became mechanized by the 1930s.

After hay was cut and dried, it was raked or rowed up by raking it into a linear heap by hand or with a horse-drawn implement. Turning hay, when needed, originally was done by hand with a fork or rake. Once the dried hay was rowed up, pitchforks were used to pile it loose, originally onto a horse-drawn cart or wagon, later onto a truck or tractor-drawn trailer, for which a sweep could be used instead of pitch forks.

Loose hay was taken to an area designated for storage—usually a slightly raised area for drainage—and built into a haystack. The stack was made waterproof as it was built (a skilled task) and the hay would compress under its own weight and cure by the release of heat from the residual moisture in the hay and from the compression forces. The stack was fenced from the rest of the paddock in a rick yard, and often thatched or sheeted to keep it dry. When needed, slices of hay would be cut using a hay knife and fed to animals each day.

On some farms, the loose hay was stored in a barrack, shed, or barn, normally in such a way that it would compress down and cure. Hay could be stored in a specially designed barn with little internal structure to allow more room for the hay loft. Alternatively, an upper storey of a cow-shed or stable was used, with hatches in the floor to allow hay to be thrown down into hay-racks below. Depending on the region, the term "hay rick" could refer to the machine for cutting hay, the haystack or the wagon used to collect the hay.

Hay baling began with the invention of the first hay press in about 1850.[14] Hay was baled for easier handling and to reduce space required for storage and shipment. The first bales weighed about 300 pounds. The original machines were of a vertical design similar to the one photographed by the Greene Co. Historical Society. They used a horse-driven screw-press mechanism or a dropped weight to compress the hay. The first patent went to HL Emery for a horse-powered, screw-operated hay press in 1853. Other models were reported as early as 1843 built by PK Dederick's Sons of Albany, New York, or Samuel Hewitt of Switzerland County, Indiana.[15] Later, horizontal machines were devised. One was the “Perpetual Press” made by PK Dederick of Albany in 1872. They could be powered by steam engines by about 1882. The continuous hay baler arrived in 1914.

Modern mechanized techniques[edit]

Harvesting hay on the Swiss Alps

Different balers can produce hay bales in different sizes and shapes. Here two different balers were used to create both large round bales and small square bales.

Baling hay

Modern mechanized hay production today is usually performed by a number of machines. While small operations use a tractor to pull various implements for mowing and raking, larger operations use specialized machines such as a mower or a swather, which are designed to cut the hay and arrange it into a windrow in one step. Balers are usually pulled by a tractor, with larger balers requiring more powerful tractors.

Mobile balers, machines that gather and bale hay in one process were first developed around 1940. The first balers produced rectangular bales small enough for a person to lift, usually between 70 and 100 pounds (32 and 45 kg) each. The size and shape made it possible for people to pick bales up, stack them on a vehicle for transport to a storage area, and then build a haystack by hand. To ease labor and increase safety, loaders and stackers were developed to mechanize the transport of small bales from the field to the haystack or hay barn. Later in the 20th century, balers were developed capable of producing large bales that weigh up to 3,000 pounds (1,400 kg).[16]

Conditioning of hay crop during cutting or soon thereafter is popular. The basic idea is that it decreases drying time, particularly in humid climates or if rain threatens to interfere with haying. Usually, rollers or flails inside a mower conditioner crimp, crack or strip the alfalfa or grass stems to increase evaporation rate.[17] Sometimes, a salt solution is sprayed over the top of the hay (generally alfalfa) that helps to dry the hay.[citation needed]

Fertilization and weed control[edit]

Modern hay production often relies on artificial fertilizer and herbicides. Traditionally, manure has been used on hayfields, but modern chemical fertilizers are used today as well. Hay that is to be certified as weed-free for use in wilderness areas must often be sprayed with chemical herbicides to keep unwanted weeds from the field, and sometimes even non-certified hayfields are sprayed to limit the production of noxious weeds. Organic forms of fertilization and weed control are required for hay grown for consumption by animals whose meat will ultimately be certified organic. To that end, compost and field rotation can enhance soil fertility, and regular mowing of fields in the growth phase of the hay will often reduce the prevalence of undesired weeds. In recent times, some producers have experimented with human sewage sludge to grow hay. This is not a certified organic method and no warning labels are mandated by EPA.[18] One concern with hay grown on human sewage sludge is that the hay can take up heavy metals, which are then consumed by animals.[19] Molybdenum poisoning is a particular concern in ruminants such as cows and goats, and there have been animal deaths.[20][21][22] Another concern is with a herbicide known as aminopyralid, which can pass through the digestive tract in animals, making their resulting manure toxic to many plants and thus unsuitable as fertilizer for food crops.[23] Aminopyralid and related herbicides can persist in the environment for several years.

Baling[edit]

When possible, hay, especially small square bales like these, should be stored under cover and protected from precipitation.

A completely wrapped silage bale in Austria

See also: Baler

Small square bales are made in two main variations. The smaller "two tie" (two twines to hold the bale together) or larger "three-tie" (three twines to hold the bale together). They vary in size within both groups but are generally popular in different markets. The smaller two-tie bales are favored in the hobby animal market and are preferred for their convenient size. The larger, three-tie bales are favored by producers wanting to export bales because of the increase of efficiency in transportation and also by customers for a better price per ton. The two-tie small bales are the original form factor of hay bales. Balers for both types of small bales are still manufactured, as well as stackers,[24] bundlers[25] and bale accumulators[26] for handling them. There are also some farms that still use equipment manufactured over 50 years ago to produce small bales. The small bale remains part of overall ranch lore and tradition with "hay bucking" competitions still held for fun at many rodeos and county fairs. Small square bales are often stacked mechanically or by hand in a crisscrossed fashion sometimes called a "haystack", "rick" or "hayrick". Rain tends to wash nutrition out of hay and can cause spoilage or mold; hay in small square bales is particularly susceptible to this. Small bales are therefore often stored in a haymow or hayshed. Haystacks built outside are often protected by tarpaulins. If this is not done, the top two layers of the stack are often lost to rot and mold, and if the stack is not arranged in a proper haystack, moisture can seep even deeper into the stack. The rounded shape and tighter compaction of round bales make them less susceptible to spoilage, as the water is less likely to penetrate into the bale. The addition of net wrap, which is not used on square bales, offers even greater weather resistance. People who keep small numbers of animals may prefer small bales that can be handled by one person without machinery. There is also a risk that hay bales may be moldy, or contain decaying carcasses of small creatures that were accidentally killed by baling equipment and swept up into the bale, which can produce toxins such as botulinum toxin. Both can be deadly to non-ruminant herbivores, such as horses, and when this occurs, the entire contaminated bale generally is thrown out, another reason some people continue to support the market for small bales.

Farmers who need to make large amounts of hay are likely to choose balers that produce much larger bales, maximizing the amount of hay that is protected from the elements. Large bales come in two types, round and square. Large square bales, which can weigh up to 1,000 kilograms (2,200 lb), can be stacked and are easier to transport on trucks. Large round bales, which typically weigh 300 to 400 kilograms (660–880 lb), are more moisture-resistant, and pack the hay more densely (especially at the center). Round bales are quickly fed with the use of mechanized equipment. The ratio of volume to surface area makes it possible for many dry-area farmers to leave large bales outside until they are consumed. Wet-area farmers and those in climates with heavy snowfall can stack round bales under a shed or tarp, but can also use a light but durable plastic wrap that partially encloses bales left outside. The wrap repels moisture but leaves the ends of the bale exposed so that the hay itself can "breathe" and does not begin to ferment. When it is possible to store round bales under a shed, they last longer and less hay is lost to rot and moisture.[27]

For animals that eat silage, a bale wrapper may be used to seal a round bale completely and trigger the fermentation process. It is a technique used as a money-saving process by producers who do not have access to a superior silo, and for producing silage that is transported to other locations.[28] In very damp climates, it is a legitimate alternative to drying hay completely and when processed properly, the natural fermentation process prevents mold and rot. Round bale silage is also sometimes called "haylage", and is seen more commonly in Europe than in either the United States or Australia. Hay stored in this fashion must remain completely sealed in plastic, as any holes or tears will allow the entrance of oxygen and can stop the preservation properties of fermentation and lead to spoilage.[29]

Stacking[edit]

Loose stacked hay built around a central pole, supported by side poles, in Romania

Kozolec, a traditional Slovenian hayrack

Hay requires protection from the weather, and is optimally stored inside buildings,[30]: 89  but weather protection is also provided in other ways involving outdoor storage, either in haystacks or in large tight bales (round or rectangular); these methods all depend on the surface of an outdoor mass of hay (stack or bale) taking the hit of the weather and thereby preserving the main body of hay underneath.

Traditionally, outdoor hay storage was done with haystacks of loose hay, where most of the hay was sufficiently preserved to last through the winter, and the top surface of the stack (being weathered) was consigned to become compost the next summer. The term "loose" means not pressed or baled but does not necessarily mean a light, fluffy lay of randomly oriented stems. Especially in wet climates, such as those of Britain, the degree of shedding of rainwater by the stack's outer surface is an important factor, and the stacking of loose hay was developed into a skilled-labor task that in its more advanced forms even involved thatching the top. In many stacking methods (with or without thatched tops), stems were oriented in sheaves, which were laid in oriented sequence.

With the advent of large bales since the 1960s, today hay is often stored outdoors because the outer surface of the large bale performs the weather-shedding function. The large bales can also be stacked, which allows a given degree of exposed surface area to count for a larger volume of protected interior hay. Plastic tarpaulins are sometimes used to shed the rain, with the goal of reduced hay wastage, but the cost of the tarpaulins must be weighed against the cost of the hay spoilage percentage difference; it may not be worth the cost, or the plastic's environmental footprint.

After World War II, British farmers found that the demand outstripped supply for skilled farm laborers experienced in the thatching of haystacks.[31] This no doubt contributed to the pressure for baling in large bales to increasingly replace stacking, which was happening anyway as haymaking technology (like other farm technology) continued toward extensive mechanization with one-person operation of many tasks. Today tons of hay can be cut, conditioned, dried, raked, and baled by one person, as long as the right equipment is at hand (although that equipment is expensive). These tons of hay can also be moved by one person, again with the right (expensive) equipment, as loaders with long spikes run by hydraulic circuits pick up each large bale and move it to its feeding location.

A fence may be built to enclose a haystack and prevent roaming animals from eating it,[32][33] or animals may feed directly from a field-constructed stack as part of their winter feeding.[34]

Haystacks are also sometimes called haycocks; among some users this term refers more specifically to small piles of cut-and-gathered hay awaiting stacking into larger stacks.[35] The words (haystack, haycock) are usually styled as solid compounds, but not always. Haystacks are also sometimes called stooks, shocks, or ricks.

Loose stacks are built to prevent the accumulation of moisture and promote drying or curing. In some places, this is accomplished by constructing stacks with a conical or ridged top.[32][36] The exterior may look gray on the surface after weathering, but the inner hay retains traces of its fresh-cut aroma and maintains a faded green tint.[32] They can be covered with thatch,[36][37] or kept within a protective structure. One such structure is a moveable roof supported by four posts, historically called a Dutch roof, hay barrack, or hay cap.[37][38] Haystacks may also be built on top of a foundation laid on the ground to reduce spoilage, in some places made of wood or brush.[32] In other areas, hay is stacked loose, built around a central pole, a tree, or within an area of three or four poles to add stability to the stack.[39][40][41]

One loose hay stacking technique seen in the British Isles is to initially stack freshly cut hay into smaller mounds called foot cocks, hay coles, kyles, hayshocks or haycocks, to facilitate initial curing.[32][42] These are sometimes built atop platforms or tripods formed of three poles, used to keep hay off the ground and let air into the center for better drying.[43] The shape causes dew and rainwater to roll down the sides, allowing the hay within to cure.[32] People who handle the hay may use hayforks or pitchforks to move or pitch the hay in building haycocks and haystacks.[32][44] Construction of tall haystacks is sometimes aided with a ramp, ranging from simple poles to a device for building large loose stacks called a beaverslide.[32][45]

A traditional method of storing wheat hay in Punjab

Hay cocks in a field in Ireland

A beaverslide with a full stack of hay in Montana, USA

Safety[edit]

Mold[edit]

These round bales have been left in the field for many months, perhaps more than a year, exposed to weather, and appear to be rotting. Not all animals can safely eat hay with rot or mold.

Hay is generally one of the safest feeds to provide to domesticated grazing herbivores. Amounts must be monitored so animals do not get too fat or too thin. Supplemental feed may be required for working animals with high energy requirements.

Animals who eat spoiled hay may develop a variety of illnesses, from coughs related to dust and mold, to various other illnesses, the most serious of which may be botulism, which can occur if a small animal, such as a rodent or snake, is killed by the baling equipment, then rots inside the bale, causing a toxin to form. Some animals are sensitive to particular fungi or molds that may grow on living plants. For example, an endophytic fungus that sometimes grows on fescue can cause abortion in pregnant mares.[46] Some plants themselves may also be toxic to some animals. For example, Pimelea, a native Australian plant, also known as flax weed, is highly toxic to cattle.[47]

Farmer's lung is a hypersensitivity pneumonitis induced by the inhalation of biologic dusts coming from hay dust or mold spores or other agricultural products.[48] Exposure to hay can also trigger allergic rhinitis for people who are hypersensitive to airborne allergens.

Spontaneous combustion[edit]

Hay must be fully dried when baled and kept dry in storage. If hay is baled while too moist or becomes wet while in storage, there is a significant risk of spontaneous combustion.[49] Hay stored outside must be stacked in such a way that moisture contact is minimal. Some stacks are arranged in such a manner that the hay itself sheds water when it falls. Other methods of stacking use the first layers or bales of hay as a cover to protect the rest. To completely keep out moisture, outside haystacks can also be covered by tarps, and many round bales are partially wrapped in plastic as part of the baling process. Hay is also stored under a roof when resources permit. It is frequently placed inside sheds, or stacked inside of a barn. On the other hand, care must also be taken that hay is never exposed to any possible source of heat or flame, as dry hay and the dust it produces are highly flammable.

Hay baled before it is fully dry can produce enough heat to start a fire. Haystacks produce internal heat due to bacterial fermentation. If hay is stacked with wet grass, the heat produced can be sufficient to ignite the hay causing a fire. Farmers have to be careful about moisture levels to avoid spontaneous combustion, which is a leading cause of haystack fires.[50] Heat is produced by the respiration process, which occurs until the moisture content of drying hay drops below 40%. Hay is considered fully dry when it reaches 20% moisture. Combustion problems typically occur within five to seven days of baling. A bale cooler than 120 °F (49 °C) is in little danger, but bales between 120 and 140 °F (49 and 60 °C) need to be removed from a barn or structure and separated so that they can cool off. If the temperature of a bale exceeds more than 140 °F (60 °C), it can combust.[51]

To check hay moisture content, the farmer can use a hand, an oven or a moisture tester. The most efficient way is to use a moisture tester which shows the moisture content in a few seconds.[52]

Weight[edit]

Round bales are harder to handle than square bales but compress the hay more tightly. This round bale is partially covered with net wrap, which is an alternative to twine

Due to its weight, hay can cause a number of injuries to humans, particularly those related to lifting and moving bales, as well as risks related to stacking and storing. Hazards include the danger of having a poorly constructed stack collapse, causing either falls to people on the stack or injuries to people on the ground who are struck by falling bales. Large round hay bales present a particular danger to those who handle them, because they can weigh over 1,000 pounds (450 kg) and cannot be moved without special equipment. Nonetheless, because they are cylindrical in shape, and thus can roll easily, it is not uncommon for them to fall from stacks or roll off the equipment used to handle them. From 1992 to 1998, 74 farm workers in the United States were killed in large round hay bale accidents, usually when bales were being moved from one location to another, such as when feeding animals.[53][54]

Chemical composition[edit]

Chemical composition[55]

Description

Water

Ash

Albuminoids

Crude fiber

Extractive matter free from nitrogen

Fat

Meadow hay (poor)

14.3

5.0

7.5

33.5

38.2

1.5

Meadow hay (average)

14.3

6.2

9.7

26.3

41.6

2.3

Meadow hay (good)

15.0

7.0

11.7

21.9

42.3

2.2

Meadow hay (prime)

16.0

7.7

13.5

19.3

40.8

2.6

Red clover hay (poor)

15.0

5.0

7.5

33.5

38.2

1.5

Red clover hay (average)

16.0

5.3

12.3

26.0

38.2

2.2

Red clover hay (good)

16.5

5.3

12.3

26.0

38.2

2.2

Red clover hay (prime)

16.5

7.0

15.3

22.2

35.8

3.2

Protein fiber

Grasses

Timothy

14.3

5.0

7.5

33.5

38.2

1.5

Redtop

8.9

5.2

7.9

28.6

47.5

1.9

Ky. blue grass

9.4

7.7

10.4

19.6

50.4

2.5

Orchard grass

9.9

6.0

8.1

32.4

41.0

2.6

Meadow fescue

20.0

6.8

7.0

25.9

38.4

2.7

Brome grass

11.0

9.5

11.6

30.8

35.2

1.8

Johnson grass

10.2

6.1

7.2

28.5

45.9

2.1

Legumes

Alfalfa

8.4

7.4

14.3

25.0

42.7

2.2

Red clover

20.8

6.6

12.4

21.9

33.8

4.5

Crimson clover

9.6

8.6

15.2

27.2

36.6

2.8

Cowpea

10.7

7.5

16.6

20.1

42.2

2.9

Soybean

11.3

7.2

15.4

22.3

38.6

5.2

Barley

10.6

5.3

9.3

23.6

48.7

2.5

Oats

16.0

6.1

7.4

27.2

40.6

2.7

See also[edit]

Agriculture and Agronomy portal

Export hay

Hay lot

National Hay Association

References[edit]

^ "The Best Method of Managing the Hay Crop". The Farmer's Magazine. 1870. p. 32.

^ "Baled Cornstalks | Illinois Extension | UIUC".

^ a b c "Hay". Living History Farms, Iowa. Retrieved 2021-06-26.

^ "Northern Hay Meadows". Wildlife Trusts. Retrieved 23 May 2023.

^ a b Deere and Company (1957), "23: Hay conditioners", The Operation, Care, and Repair of Farm Machinery (28th ed.), Moline, Illinois, USA: Deere and Company, ASIN B000FNB7WM, OCLC 965865819.

^ Jones, Steven M.; Russell, Mark, Managing Fescue for Horses FSA3042 (PDF), University of Arkansas Division of Agriculture, archived (PDF) from the original on 2001-06-14, Cattle grazing fescue often develop a chronic, unthrifty condition, especially apparent during the summer months. In addition, some cattle occasionally develop lameness and lose portions of their feet and tails during fall and winter. Some mares grazing fescue have reproductive problems during the last trimester of pregnancy.

^ "Selecting Hay for Horses". Agry.purdue.edu. 1914-06-30. Archived from the original on 2011-03-09. Retrieved 2012-02-23.

^ Schoenian, Susan. "An Introduction to Feeding Small Ruminants". Western Maryland Research & Education Center. Maryland Cooperative Extension Service. Retrieved 2007-11-12.

^ "Information on Feeding sheep". Archived from the original on 2007-11-14.

^ Mike Neary and Keith Johnson (1991). "Stretching Hay Supplies". Indiana Sheep Tales Vol. 2. Purdue University. Archived from the original on 2007-10-12. Retrieved 2007-11-12.

^ Budiansky, Stephen (1997). The Nature of Horses. Free Press. ISBN 0-684-82768-9.

^ K. J. Shinners and R.T. Schuler. "Equipment to rake and merge hay and forage". University of Wisconsin-Extension. Archived from the original on 2007-05-15. Retrieved 2007-05-29.

^ "LacusCurtius". Columella, De Re Rustica (Book II ed.). Retrieved 2022-11-14.

^ John T. Schlebecker, “Whereby We Thrive: A History of American Farming, 1607–1972,” Iowa State University Press, 1975, p 198

^ "Farm Collector". 15 December 2011.

^ Hires, William G. "Large Round Bales: Management". Publication no. G1955. University of Missouri Extension. Archived from the original on 2006-09-12. Retrieved 2007-05-29.

^ "The Importance of Hay Conditioning | UGA Forage Extension Team". 2 August 2017.

^ "Certified Organic Requirements". Archived from the original on 2015-07-06. Retrieved 2012-01-02.

^ Alloway, Brian J.; Jackson, Andrew P. (1991). "The behaviour of heavy metals in sewage sludge-amended soils". Science of the Total Environment. 100: 151–176. Bibcode:1991ScTEn.100..151A. doi:10.1016/0048-9697(91)90377-Q. PMID 2063180.

^ "Molybdenum Poisoning: Introduction".

^ "Metal uptake by plants". Archived from the original on 2012-11-22. Retrieved 2013-08-14.

^ "Contamination on McElmurray farm from human sewage sludge fertilizer" (PDF). Archived (PDF) from the original on 2010-07-14.

^ Pleasant, Barbara (2009-07-24). "Milestone Herbicide Creates Killer Compost". Motherearthnews.com. Retrieved 2012-02-23.

^ "Stackcruiser® Self-Propelled Bale Wagons".

^ "Bale Baron | Marcrest Manufacturing Inc".

^ "Norden MFG | Bale Accumulators". 3 May 2022.

^ Rayburn, Edward B. "Round Bale Storage Costs". West Virginia University Extension Service. Archived from the original on 2007-04-04. Retrieved 2007-05-29.

^ "Large Round Bale Silage" (PDF). Penn State Cooperative Extension service. Archived from the original (PDF) on 2006-02-04. Retrieved 2007-05-29.

^ Karen Spivey and Jackie Nix. "Haylage". North Carolina Cooperative Extension Service. Archived from the original on 2007-10-20. Retrieved 2007-05-29.

^ Yost, Spencer (2006), Small-Scale Haymaking, St. Paul, MN, USA: Voyageur Press, ISBN 9780760320969.

^ Henderson, George (2013) [1944], The Farming Ladder (Kindle ed.), ASIN B0090KZEA2.

^ a b c d e f g h Steven R. Hoffbeck (2000). The Haymakers: A Chronicle of Five Farm Families. Minnesota Historical Society Press. pp. 29–32. ISBN 978-0-87351-395-1.

^ Singleton, GR (1985). "A Demographic and Gentic Study of House Mice, Mus musulus, Colonizing Pasture Haystacks on a Cereal Farm". Australian Journal of Zoology. 33 (4): 437. doi:10.1071/ZO9850437. ISSN 0004-959X.

^ Ruechel, Julius (2012). "7: Planning for Winter Grazing". Grass-Fed Cattle: How to Produce and Market Natural Beef. Storey Publishing, LLC. ISBN 978-1-60342-587-2.

^ HarperCollins (2018), "headword 'haycock'", Collins English Dictionary, retrieved 2018-09-08.

^ a b "Haystack". Dictionary.com. Dictionary.com, LLC. 26 December 2013.

^ a b Falk, Cynthia (1 May 2012). Barns of New York: Rural Architecture of the Empire State. Cornell University Press. pp. 108–109. ISBN 978-0-8014-6445-4.

^ The Farmer's Magazine: A periodical work, exclusively devoted to agriculture and rural affairs. Vol. 3. Edinburgh: Archibald Constable. 1802. pp. 344–345.

^ Francis, Irv E. (4 August 2005). About Dreams and Memories on the Old Farm. AuthorHouse. p. 71. ISBN 978-1-4634-4959-9.

^ Jackson, Mark (10 October 2011). An Intrepid Traveller: Breaking China with the Idiots Abroad. Trafford Publishing. pp. 230–231. ISBN 978-1-4269-9488-3.

^ Southern Crops as Grown and Described by Successful Farmers. Cultivator Publishing Company. 1911. pp. 205–206.

^ Scottish Literary Journal: Supplement No. 4, Issues 6–11. Association for Scottish Literary Studies. 1978. p. 24.

^ Tresemer, David Ward (1996). The Scythe Book: Mowing Hay, Cutting Weeds, and Harvesting Small Grains, with Hand Tools. Alan C. Hood. p. 53. ISBN 978-0-911469-14-1.

^ Webster's II New College Dictionary. Houghton Mifflin Harcourt. 2005. p. 521. ISBN 0-618-39601-2.

^ Ernst, Lisa; Swaney, Alexandra. "The Beaverslide: Homegrown Haying Technology". Folklife. Montana Arts Council. Archived from the original on October 1, 2012. Retrieved September 28, 2012.

^ Wright, Bob; Kenney, Dan. "Abortion in Horses". Ontario Ministry of Agriculture, Food, and Rural Affairs.

^ Alice Plate (March 2, 2006). "Toxic Weed Kills Cattle". ABC Rural: Queensland.

^ Enelow, RI (2008). Fishman's Pulmonary Diseases and Disorders (4th ed.). McGraw-Hill. pp. 1161–1172. ISBN 978-0-07-145739-2.

^ "Preventing Haystack Fires" (PDF). Country Fire Authority (CFA) Victoria, Australia. December 2008. Archived from the original (PDF) on 2012-03-21. Retrieved 2011-11-10.

^ "Haystack Fires (Spontaneous Combustion)" (PDF). Department of Primary Industries, Melbourne, Victoria, Australia. October 2008. Archived from the original (PDF) on 2016-03-18. Retrieved 2009-06-21.

^ "Barn Fires: Avoid Hay Bale Combustion." The Horse, online edition. by: Oklahoma State University July 24, 2009, Article # 14589. Accessed June 13, 2010

^ "Top 7 Best Hay Moisture Tester Reviews (2021 Updated)". Sand Creek Farm. 2020-11-24. Retrieved 2021-06-09.

^ "Hazards Associated with Using Farm Tractors to Move Large Bales". The National Institute for Occupational Safety and Health (NIOSH). 2001. doi:10.26616/NIOSHPUB2001146. Retrieved September 10, 2004.

^ "Fatalities Associated With Large Round Hay Bales—Minnesota, 1994-1996". JAMA. 279 (9): 647–649. 4 March 1998. doi:10.1001/jama.279.9.647-JWR0304-2-1. Retrieved September 10, 2004.

^ The American Peoples Encyclopedia. Chicago, Illinois: Spencer Press, Inc. 1955. pp. 10–291/10–292.

External links[edit]

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Hay Harvesting in the 1940s instructional films, Center for Digital Initiatives, University of Vermont Library

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"Hay". New International Encyclopedia. 1905.

"Hay (fodder)". Encyclopædia Britannica (11th ed.). 1911.

"Hay". Encyclopedia Americana. 1920.

"Hay". Collier's New Encyclopedia. 1921.

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Hay | Definition, Grass, Bale, & Facts | Britannica

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hay harvestHarvesting hay in Sheridan, Montana.(more)hay, in agriculture, dried grasses and other foliage used as animal feed. Usually the material is cut in the field while still green and then either dried in the field or mechanically dried by forced hot air. Typical hay crops are timothy, alfalfa, and clover. Given that the protein content of grasses and legumes decreases and fibre and lignified tissue increases as growing plants advance in maturity, a good hay crop must be cut at the proper stage, handled so as to retain the leaves, and cured to prevent spoilage or discoloration. Hay is usually dried in small piles or stacks in the field, but a rainy climate may dictate forced-air curing in the barn. Properly cured hay with 20 percent or less moisture may be stored for months without danger of spoilage. See also straw.Until the middle of the 19th century, hay was cut by hand with sickles and scythes. In the 1860s early cutting devices were developed that resembled those on reapers and binders; from these came the modern array of fully mechanical mowers, crushers, windrowers, field choppers, balers, and machines for pelletizing or wafering in the field.

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feed: Hay

Mowers consist of a long, flat steel cutter bar, with fingers pointing forward, and a thin steel reciprocating knife section with triangular steel blades riveted on. The cutter bar combs through the grass close to the ground, while the reciprocating blades cut it off.The hay mower-conditioner, introduced in the 1960s, has either steel or rubber rolls to split the stems or meshing fluted rolls to crimp the stems, allowing moisture to escape quickly so that leaves and stems dry at nearly the same rate, reducing overall drying time.hayBales of hay.(more)Balers compress hay or straw into tightly packed rectangular or cylindrical bales weighing around 22 to 45 kg (50 to 100 pounds) and tied with wire or twine. Pickup balers have a rotary toothed pickup mechanism to lift the windrows and deliver the hay to a feeding device that places it in the baling chamber on each stroke of the compressing plunger. Two twines or wires are automatically tied around a length of hay compressed into a bale chamber to form a bale, the density and length of which can be adjusted.

Hay cubers, developed in the mid-1960s, pick up the cut hay from windrows and compress it into cubes that are easily shoveled; they are practical in regions in which the climate permits cut forage to dry to the desired moisture content.

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The Editors of Encyclopaedia BritannicaThis article was most recently revised and updated by Melissa Petruzzello.

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How to Cut, Bale, and Store Hay (with Pictures) - wikiHow

How to Cut, Bale, and Store Hay (with Pictures) - wikiHow

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CategoriesWork WorldOccupationsFarmingHow to Cut, Bale, and Store Hay

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parts

1

Cutting and Raking

2

Tedding and Drying

3

Baler Options

4

Baling

5

Storage Conditions

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Co-authored by

Liz Riffle

Last Updated: January 4, 2024

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This article was co-authored by Liz Riffle. Liz Riffle is a Regenerative Farming & Agriculture Specialist and the Owner of Riffle Farm in West Virginia. With over six years of experience, Liz specializes in holistic bison farming and employing humane agricultural practices in her business. Riffle Farm is the first commercial bison operation in the state of West Virginia and is part of the movement to facilitate the large-scale regeneration of the world’s grasslands. Liz is a Savory Accredited Professional and teaches Holistic Management across the country. She received her Masters in Nursing Education from Excelsior University and was part of the US Navy Nurse Corps Commission at Northwestern University.

This article has been viewed 95,117 times.

Dry hay harvest and baling is an important part of life for ranchers and farmers who have foraging herbivorous animals, like sheep, cattle and horses. A good hay crop is defined by weather, field conditions and plant reseeding, as well as the farmer’s timing and hard work. Hay is usually stored in round or square bales that are created with modern machinery.

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Part 1

Part 1 of 5:

Cutting and Raking

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1

Check your machinery approximately one month before you plan to start haying. Delays in harvest due to broken parts or inadequate equipment can result in a late harvest or improperly dried hay.

If there are legumes, such as alfalfa and clover, in your hay field, you may need to harvest slightly earlier, when they are at 10 to 20 percent of full flower.[1]

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2

Cut your hay when the leaves have developed fully and the seed heads have not fully developed. This is the point when the hay will offer the best nutrition for your animals.

Cutting the hay too early will result in lower yields.

Cutting the hay too late will result in lower nutritive content, because the plant has begun focusing on seed production.[2]

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3

Wait until you have at least three days of dry weather to cut your hay. It takes this amount of time to cure dry hay for baling and rain interrupts this process. There is usually a two-week window in which hay is in the perfect stage for cutting.[3]

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4

Cut your pasture with a sickle mower, sickle haybine or rotary disk mower. Generally the size of your land determines which of these pieces of equipment you will need, in order of smallest to largest machinery and investment.

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Part 2

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Tedding and Drying

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1

Start tedding the hay the day within a day of cutting. A hay tedder is a tractor attachment or piece of machinery that aerates the hay. It spreads it out so light and heat can dry the hay out.

A tedder and rake is often the same piece of equipment.

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2

Turn the hay one to three times over the next three days. Turning the hay with your tedder or rake will cause some quality loss, because the seeds and grass will fall through the hay onto the pasture. Only turn it according to what is necessary to cure it in your climate.

If it rains, you may need to turn the hay an additional time to ensure it is dry before storing.

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3

Test the hay frequently to see what its internal moisture content is. It should be brittle and crisp, but not too easy to shatter in your hand. Baling the hay too early can result in spoilage, mold and even spontaneous combustion in your stacked bales.

For an easy test, twist several stalks of mown grass, place it in a dry box with several tsp. of salt. Shake the container for one minute and if the salt remains dry, it is ready to bale.[4]

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Research source

For a scientific approach, purchase an electronic moisture tester at your local farm supply store or from a catalog. It should be below 22 percent moisture, usually baled at 15 to 18 percent moisture content.

Hay that is too dry will result in extra breakage and lower quality of hay in bales.

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4

Rake the hay together in large windrows. Most balers need a wider windrow than the traditional mower can offer. You will get the densest bale with the highest quality hay by ensuring the windrow is sufficiently large for your baler.

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Part 3

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Baler Options

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1

Consider a small square baler if you have a small operation. In this case, you may be able to store the small bales inside a barn to preserve it.

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2

Use square bales if you keep goats and sheep. They can sometimes be pickier than cows or horses and consume the hay slowly.

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3

Pick small square bales if you want to market your hay to small livestock operations. You may be able to sell bales to horse owners, pet shops or people with small herds of cattle.

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4

Opt for large circular bales if you have a large farming and ranching operation. The baling of hay can be mechanized with a large baler, saving you time. These balers require a significant amount of investment in equipment.

Large circular bales will also reduce the time it takes to feed. They are larger than square bales, so you will need to roll out a smaller number of them to feed your livestock.

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5

Choose circular bales if you must store the hay outside. You can cover the hay with tarps, wrap it partially while you bale or arrange it in a stack so that water can pour off the top to avoid spoilage.

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6

Go for large circular bales only if you are able to cure the hay correctly. Round bales are denser and more likely to combust if baled when wet.

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Baling

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1

Position your baler pick-up tines approximately one inch (2.5 cm) above the ground. You will eliminate wear on your baler and pick up less dirt.

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2

Operate your baler at a consistent and moderate speed. You will have less pickup loss if the tines float at the same level and the hay lifts and flows into the bale chamber.

You may need to drive more quickly with a round baler to reduce chamber loss.

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3

Check your baler after you do one to two bales. You want to check for width, density and chamber/pickup loss. Adjust the settings as needed to improve the quality of the bale.

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4

Leave the bales in the field to be picked up later or load them as you bale. Large round bales require larger machinery to lift and stack them.

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Storage Conditions

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1

Store your hay under a roof if possible. It reduces the matter loss to two to ten percent.

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2

Try to elevate your hay on a platform instead of placing it directly on the ground. Elevating the hay can reduce matter loss by up to 15 percent.

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3

Cover your hay in a bale sleeve or plastic wrap to reduce loss further. This may be even more important if you live in a wet climate.

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4

Cover your haystacks with tarps to decrease matter loss by up to 15 percent. Some of the water may pour off the top and get trapped in the earth below, resulting in matter loss at the bottom.

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Will a windrow that is to deep cause a small square baler to cause erratic or crooked miswrapped bales?

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It is possible, it depends on how deep the windrow actually is. However, it shouldn't affect the bale quality too much.

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Tips

A hay preservative can be applied during curing to reduce the amount of time it takes before you bale. If a preservative is applied, you may be able to bale with moisture content up to 30 percent.

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Things You'll Need

Mower, haybine or disk mower

Tedder/rake

Baler

Salt

Electronic moisture tester

Tarps

Bale sleeves

Barn/roof

Flatbed for moving bales

Tractor

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Expert Interview

Thanks for reading our article! If you’d like to learn more about cooking, check out our in-depth interview with Liz Riffle.

References

↑ http://www.motherearthnews.com/homesteading-and-livestock/growing-harvesting-baling-hay-zmaz75jazgoe.aspx?PageId=2#ArticleContent

↑ http://extension.unh.edu/resources/files/resource001171_rep1484.pdf

↑ http://extension.unh.edu/resources/files/resource001171_rep1484.pdf

↑ http://www.motherearthnews.com/homesteading-and-livestock/growing-harvesting-baling-hay-zmaz75jazgoe.aspx?PageId=3#ArticleContent

About This Article

Co-authored by:

Liz Riffle

Regenerative Farming & Agriculture Specialist

This article was co-authored by Liz Riffle. Liz Riffle is a Regenerative Farming & Agriculture Specialist and the Owner of Riffle Farm in West Virginia. With over six years of experience, Liz specializes in holistic bison farming and employing humane agricultural practices in her business. Riffle Farm is the first commercial bison operation in the state of West Virginia and is part of the movement to facilitate the large-scale regeneration of the world’s grasslands. Liz is a Savory Accredited Professional and teaches Holistic Management across the country. She received her Masters in Nursing Education from Excelsior University and was part of the US Navy Nurse Corps Commission at Northwestern University. This article has been viewed 95,117 times.

2 votes - 60%

Co-authors: 7

Updated: January 4, 2024

Views: 95,117

Categories: Farming

Article SummaryXWith modern machinery, cutting, baling, and storing your hay has never been easier. Cut your hay when the leaves have developed fully but before the seed heads have fully grown. This will provide the best nutrition for your animals. Wait until you have 3 days of dry weather so you can cure and bale the hay without it getting wet. Cut your hay with a sickle mower or sickle haybine if you have a small or medium-sized field or a disk mower, if you have a large field. Then, use a baler at a steady, moderate speed, which will be the most effective. Store your hay under shelter or cover it with a tarp sheet to protect it from the rain. For more tips, including how to cure your hay, read on!

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Co-authored by:

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How To Grow Quality Hay - Hobby Farms

ow To Grow Quality Hay - Hobby Farms

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Subscribe Home Farm & GardenCrops & GardeningHow To Grow Quality HayHow To Grow Quality HayYour pastures can offer one of the most valuable crops grown on your land: hay.

by J. Keeler Johnson

May 6, 2016

PHOTO: Peter Roome/FlickrFor many farmers, growing your own hay to feed your livestock is one satisfying step closer to a self-sufficient farm. If you’re lucky enough to have several large, open fields on your farm, growing your own hay can be a very viable project. But as with any crop, growing hay has its share of complexities and challenges that must be considered before you get started. Here are some tips to help you grow quality hay.What Makes Quality Hay?Growing quality hay requires a combination of weed-free fields and good weather. One of the keys to growing quality hay is harvesting it at the appropriate time, before the seeds of grass hay mature and before legume plants bloom. Once the hay begins to mature, the amount of nutrients can diminish quickly, leading to lower-quality hay that is less nutritious.

Hay cannot get wet once it’s been cut, as this further reduces the nutrient content and can cause the hay to mold once it’s been baled. Growing quality hay can be a careful balancing act between cutting at the time of peak nutritional value while avoiding rainstorms and cutting only during stretches of dry weather.Hay VarietiesThere are many different types of hay that you can grow, and which you choose will vary depending on where you live. Some of the most common include:

Grass: Hay can be made from many types of grass, with timothy, bermudagrass and orchardgrass being common choices.

Legume: Alfalfa is the dominant member of the legume family when it comes to making hay, with clover another to consider and bird’s-foot trefoil a popular choice for hayfields containing more moisture.

Grass/Legume Combinations: Growing a combination of grass and legumes can yield quality hay, and the legumes add nitrogen to the soil, which is necessary for the grasses to grow to their potential.Preparing Soil for PlantingTo grow quality hay, you’ll need to sample your soil to determine if any fertilizers or soil amendments should be applied. As mentioned above, ample nitrogen is important for grass hay, while for legumes, phosphorus and potassium are key soil nutrients. To ensure that the soil pH level is appropriate for growing hay, limestone may need to be added several months in advance of planting. Having an expert test your soil and recommend fertilizer amounts can help ensure that your soil is well-prepared for growing hay.Improving YieldThe amount of hay your fields can produce will depend in great part on the number of important nutrients available in the soil, so supplying fertilizers every few years can help you to greatly improve yield. Rotating the crops you grow in your fields can also be helpful, especially with alfalfa, which doesn’t perform as well when grown in the same fields for too many years. Alfalfa does better growing in fields that have previously been used for crops in different plant families, such as corn.Hay Growing ChallengesMoisture content and pests are two of the main challenges of growing quality hay.

Moisture ContentHay must be dried in the field after cutting to avoid mold growth. For small square bales, a moisture content of around 20 percent or less is fine, but for large square and round bales, the moisture content will need to be lower—as little as 15 percent. Hay moisture meters can be purchased to give you an accurate measurement.PestsInsect pests, such as alfalfa weevils, can also be serious problems. For large infestations of alfalfa weevils, which can destroy an entire crop of alfalfa, spraying with insecticides may be necessary, although another solution is to cut the hay earlier than usual, which kills the weevils while preserving the hay from further damage. Consult an expert to determine the best approach.It’s also important to be on the lookout for blister beetles. Although they don’t usually cause much damage to crops, blister beetles contain a bodily fluid that causes blisters, and horses that eat hay containing the beetles will develop internal blisters that can cause death. Blister beetles are usually found in bunches, and should you discover them in portions of your fields, it might be wise to avoid cutting those sections rather than risk baling the beetles in your hay.Harvesting HayWhen harvesting quality hay, there are a couple of factors to consider:How Many Cuttings?Depending on the weather and the length of your growing season, it can be possible to cut hay early in the year, let it regrow, and then cut it once or even twice more before fall arrives. These second and third cuttings can produce higher-quality hay that is prized among farmers.Your Harvest ScheduleWhen should you expect to cut your hay for the first time each year? Naturally, this will vary depending on your location and whether you’ve experienced an early or late spring, but the typical time for the first cutting of alfalfa can range from as early as February or March in western states, such as California, to as late as June in northern states, like Wisconsin and Montana.Shorter growing seasons also mean that you can’t cut as late into the year as in areas with long seasons of warm weather. In many states, cutting season ends in September, but in a few lucky states the cutting season can extend into November. Alfalfa in particular can be tricky to cut at the right time of year.For more information on haying season, visit the Michigan State University Extension website.Baling HayHay can be baled in a variety of shapes and sizes, depending on available equipment and personal preference. Small square bales and large round bales are the most common; large square bales that weigh similar to round bales also exist.

Small square bales require more handling than larger bales, but offer the benefit of being more manageable. Weighing between 40 to 60 pounds, they can easily be moved around by a single person, whereas machinery is required for moving large square and round bales.Testing Your HayIn some respects, the quality of the hay you produce can be measured by its appearance and smell. Does it have rich color, or is it dull and gray? Does it smell fresh? Is it dusty? Does the hay have a high amount of leaf material (which has higher nutritional value), or have the leaves mostly shattered during cutting and baling?But while a visual examination can tell you a lot about your hay, an official chemical test can tell you about the nutritional value of your hay. Several nutritional factors can be measured, including the crude protein content of the hay, which can help determine how much hay to feed to your animals and also gives you an idea of your hay’s monetary value.

The National Forage Testing Association (NFTA) certifies labs to test hay, and having a NFTA-certified lab analyze your hay is the best way to get an accurate measurement of its nutritional values. The Penn State Extension has more information.Pricing Your HayIf you’re able to produce more hay than your animals need, good for you—you’ll have some left over to sell! However, choosing how much to charge for your hay can be tricky and will vary depending on where you live.The first step is to add up the cost of producing your hay, taking into account all expenses involved such as the cost of seeding, fertilizers, hired help, and running the equipment. Adding up all expenses and dividing by the number of bales produced can give you the cost per bale, the perfect starting point for setting your price. Research what other haymakers in your region are charging per bale. If you find that offering a competitive price means you can’t make a profit, you might be better off keeping your hay for your own use. On the other hand, if you have produced top-quality hay, you might be able to charge a higher price than your competitors and still find buyers.Growing quality hay requires a lot of patience and effort, but these tips should help get you started.

Author BioJ. Keeler Johnson is a writer, farmer, blogger and videographer with a passion for pruning trees. He lives on a farm in northern Wisconsin, where he cares for more than 100 apple trees and one 40-foot pear tree that should have been pruned long ago.Leave a Reply Cancel replyYour email address will not be published. Required fields are marked *Comment * Name * Email * Website Save my name, email, and website in this browser for the next time I comment.

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How to Grow Hay: 12 Steps (with Pictures) - wikiHow

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CategoriesWork WorldOccupationsFarmingHow to Grow Hay

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Sue Ferreri

Last Updated: September 26, 2023

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This article was co-authored by Sue Ferreri. Sue Ferreri is the Executive Director of the Rockland Farm Alliance in Rockland County, New York. The Rockland Farm Alliance is a non-profit broad-based coalition of farmers, community activists, local officials, and interested citizens with a simple mission to preserve, create, and enhance sustainable food production in Rockland County. Sue grew up farming and now helps farmers get organically certified and supports them in creating their businesses. She studied Business Management at Millersville University and Community Development and Viticulture at Stellenbosch University in South Africa.

This article has been viewed 100,471 times.

Whether you need it for livestock or other uses, growing hay at home is a cheap and easy alternative to purchasing it in bulk. Depending on your preferences, you can use grass, alfalfa, or a mixture of both to make hay. Once you've grown your crop, all you have to do is cut, dry, and store your hay for use as needed. Given seven months and plenty of care, you're sure to have plenty of homegrown hay for your needs!

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Part 1

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Planting

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1

Use grass or alfalfa to grow hay. Typically, hay is made from either grass or alfalfa. Depending on your needs, plant grass, alfalfa, or a mixture of the 2 for use as hay after growing.[1]

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Grass hay is generally more nutritious than alfalfa hay for livestock, but alfalfa has more fiber.[2]

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If you choose grass hay, timothy grass is ideal for growing and harvesting hay.[3]

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2

Plant your grass or alfalfa in a nitrogen-rich soil. Hay grows best in soil with plenty of organic matter. Test the soil's nitrogen content with a home soil test kit and, if low, mix it with a nitrogen-rich compost.[4]

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You can buy home soil test kits from some plant nurseries or agricultural supply stores.

To make your compost nitrogen-rich, add coffee grounds, plant clippings, chicken droppings or aged manure, or bone meal.

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3

Till the ground with a rotary tiller. Turn on the tiller and push it through the dirt in a straight row. Work your way through the dirt in straight lines until you till the entire area.[5]

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If you don't have a rotary tiller or are tilling a small area, you can loosen the dirt and smooth out any clumps with a shovel.

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4

Spread grass or alfalfa around the tilled dirt. Grab a handful of grass, alfalfa, or mixture seeds and spread them evenly along the tilled dirt. Rake the entire tilled area to work the seeds into the soil using light strokes.[6]

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If you're growing grass, you can also plant grass plugs or [[lay sod instead.

Water the seeds immediately after planting to help them adjust to their new environment.

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1

Water the grass or alfalfa daily. For the first 10 days after planting, water the grass or alfalfa 3 times a day for 10 minutes each time. After 10 days, you can decrease this number to just once a day for 20 minutes.[7]

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After watering the grass or alfalfa, the soil should be moist but not waterlogged.

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2

Fertilize the grass or alfalfa once a month. Hay grows best if it has plenty of nitrogen and organic matter. Purchase a nitrogen-rich liquid fertilizer and spray the plant and the soil, reapplying the fertilizer monthly to encourage growth.

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3

Spray the grass or alfalfa with a non-toxic pest repellent. Hay crops are prone to weevil, blister beetle, and other insect infestations. To keep insects from damaging your crop, spray your crop with a non-toxic insect repellent once a month or as you notice infestations.[8]

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You can buy non-toxic pest repellents online or from some plant nurseries.

Do not spray toxic repellents on the hay. Non-toxic is important, particularly if you plan to use the hay for livestock feed.

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4

Weed the soil regularly for a healthier crop. Weeds can steal moisture and soil nutrients from your grass or alfalfa. Inspect the soil every day for weeds and pull any as you notice them.[9]

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Do not use herbicides on the weeds, as some may kill your hay as well.

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Harvesting

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1

Harvest the grass or alfalfa before it flowers. The best time to harvest grass or alfalfa for hay is while it's green but not yet flowering. If you notice your crop beginning to flower, harvest the crop within several days if possible.

Alfalfa usually flowers 7-8 months after planting. Plan on harvesting your hay within this time frame.

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2

Cut the grass or alfalfa using a scythe or shears. Depending on the size of your harvest, chop the grass or alfalfa about 1–2 inches (2.5–5.1 cm) from the roots. After cutting the hay, gather it in a container for curing later on.[10]

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For larger crops, you can use a rotary disk or sickle mower instead.[11]

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3

Dry the grass or alfalfa for 2-3 weeks. Lay the grass or alfalfa out on a dry, warm spot with plenty of sunlight. Leave the harvest to dry for at least 2 weeks or until it is completely dry to the touch.

If you live in a windy location, dry your crops in a greenhouse or a shed with windows.

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4

Store your hay in a dry location. Hay is especially prone to mold or mildewing. To prevent this, choose a place with low humidity to store your hay (like a shed or garage).

If you have to store your hay outside, you can cover it with a tarp to protect it from moisture.

As long as your hay is stored away from moisture, it should last indefinitely.

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What is the best way to stack hay?

Sue Ferreri

Executive Director of Rockland Farm Alliance

Sue Ferreri is the Executive Director of the Rockland Farm Alliance in Rockland County, New York. The Rockland Farm Alliance is a non-profit broad-based coalition of farmers, community activists, local officials, and interested citizens with a simple mission to preserve, create, and enhance sustainable food production in Rockland County. Sue grew up farming and now helps farmers get organically certified and supports them in creating their businesses. She studied Business Management at Millersville University and Community Development and Viticulture at Stellenbosch University in South Africa.

Sue Ferreri

Executive Director of Rockland Farm Alliance

Expert Answer

It is much easier to stack bales of hay if you have a pallet and wrap each bale. Then, you will offset stack them, so it's a strong hold, like the way you lay bricks. Do not stack them one on top of the other.

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If you already grow grass, you can grow it out several inches or centimeters larger than you normally would for a small hay harvest.[12]

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Things You'll Need

Grass or alfalfa seeds

Nitrogen-rich soil

Rotary tiller

Water

Nitrogen-rich liquid fertilizer

Non-toxic pest repellent

Scythe or shears

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Thanks for reading our article! If you’d like to learn more about farming, check out our in-depth interview with Sue Ferreri.

References

↑ https://www.hobbyfarms.com/how-to-grow-hay/

↑ https://www.hobbyfarms.com/all-hay-is-not-equal-choose-your-livestocks-carefully/

↑ https://www.hobbyfarms.com/all-hay-is-not-equal-choose-your-livestocks-carefully/

↑ https://www.hobbyfarms.com/how-to-grow-hay/

↑ https://www.popularmechanics.com/home/lawn-garden/how-to/a9557/7-steps-to-seeding-a-new-lawn/

↑ https://www.popularmechanics.com/home/lawn-garden/how-to/a9557/7-steps-to-seeding-a-new-lawn/

↑ https://www.popularmechanics.com/home/lawn-garden/how-to/a9557/7-steps-to-seeding-a-new-lawn/

↑ https://www.hobbyfarms.com/how-to-grow-hay/

↑ https://www.noble.org/news/publications/ag-news-and-views/2009/september/common-mistakes-in-growing-alfalfa/

More References (3)

↑ http://www.therabbithouse.com/blog/2011/07/01/making-hay/

↑ https://www.motherearthnews.com/homesteading-and-livestock/growing-harvesting-baling-hay-zmaz75jazgoe

↑ http://www.therabbithouse.com/blog/2011/07/01/making-hay/

About This Article

Co-authored by:

Sue Ferreri

Executive Director of Rockland Farm Alliance

This article was co-authored by Sue Ferreri. Sue Ferreri is the Executive Director of the Rockland Farm Alliance in Rockland County, New York. The Rockland Farm Alliance is a non-profit broad-based coalition of farmers, community activists, local officials, and interested citizens with a simple mission to preserve, create, and enhance sustainable food production in Rockland County. Sue grew up farming and now helps farmers get organically certified and supports them in creating their businesses. She studied Business Management at Millersville University and Community Development and Viticulture at Stellenbosch University in South Africa. This article has been viewed 100,471 times.

5 votes - 80%

Co-authors: 4

Updated: September 26, 2023

Views: 100,471

Categories: Farming

Article SummaryXIf you want to grow hay, you’ll need to till the area you plan to use into straight lines, which helps the seed grow. When you plant the seeds, rake them into the soil and water them immediately to help them settle in. During the first 10 days, water the grass daily to encourage growth. You should also add a nitrogen-rich fertilizer once a month, since hay grows best in soil high in nitrogen. Hay can be prone to attracting insects and other pests, so it’s a good idea to spray it monthly with a non-toxic insect repellant to keep them away. For tips on how to harvest your hay, keep reading!

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In other languages

Español:cultivar heno

Русский:выращивать сено

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Susanne Campbell

Jun 11, 2019

"This article has encouraged and inspired me to grow my own and become self sufficient. Many thanks for sharing."

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Co-authored by:

Sue Ferreri

Executive Director of Rockland Farm Alliance

Co-authors: 4

Updated: September 26, 2023

Views: 100,471

80% of readers found this article helpful.

5 votes - 80%

Click a star to add your vote

% of people told us that this article helped them.

Susanne Campbell

Jun 11, 2019

"This article has encouraged and inspired me to grow my own and become self sufficient. Many thanks for sharing."

Share yours!

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